Crossing into Laos

Huay Xai is a border town on the Laotian side of the Mekong River. Generally, towns on both sides of the river have a bit of a wild side. However, unless you plan to smuggle DVD players across the river, the towns will appear as sleepy, but interesting stopping off points that are defined by their status as crossing points between two countries and two cultures. Huay Xai is no different. Businesses accept Thai Baht, Lao Kip, and US Dollars, or any combination of the above.

The unique atmosphere in border towns is present in Huay Xai. Witnessing the goings-on is the main reason to hang around this town for more than a day. The Mekong is another attraction, offering sublime views of the sunset as well as serving as a roadway to other sights.

There are a few outdoor café/beer hall places along the river. These are the best paces to take in the mighty Mekong.

The local market is a good place to get a feel for the commerce the river and the border bring to the town. As with most Southeast Asian markets, things get started unbearably early, so a morning trip is the best way to see the market in full swing.

Traveling by river is fun. A speedboat ride, complete with crash helmet, will get you anywhere you want to go quickly, as well as getting your heart pumping. Accidents on these water-vehicles are frequent, however, so go at your own risk. At the very least, a rib-jarring spill into the Mekong would be unpleasant. Unfortunately, speedboat accidents usually have worse outcomes. Traveling by slow boat is safer, but, as the name says, slower. A trip up to Luang Prabang takes a good day and a half.

If you are headed to Thailand, the border crossing might not be the most convenient way to go, but it is one of the more interesting. Immigration and customs officers on the Lao side might require an “extra fee” to help proceedings move along smoothly. The border crossing in Thailand is at Chiang Khong. This is not something to attempt during off hours, as the Lao side of the border might be closed. Even though crossing here is quite legal (so long as you have already obtained a visa for Laos), one can get a sense of excitement from crossing the border at Huay Xai, even if you don’t wear the helmet and ride in the seemingly (perhaps actually) unstable speedboat.