Finding Old Tokyo

Finding old Tokyo is difficult. Amidst giant skyscrapers and never ending shopping complexes, there is little to suggest Tokyo even existed before 1945. Of course, much of the city was rebuilt after that year out of necessity. However, there are places to find the atmosphere of pre-World War II Tokyo. The Taito District of Tokyo is a working class area devoid of large buildings. There is little flash here. The Ueno neighborhood is perhaps the best place to experience the Tokyo of the past.

Ameyoko Market is an outdoor shopping venue with vendors selling, well, everything. It is crowded, but is unique because it does not have the chaotic feel of crowds in other areas of Tokyo.

For travelers, Ueno Station is the last Tokyo stop before following the rails North towards Japan’s cooler climes. The station is the centerpiece of the neighborhood. Ameyoko Market is nearby, as is Ueno Kōen (Ueno Park).

Ueno Park has a small zoo that is best known for its famous Giant Pandas. There are several other notable species housed there as well.

Tokyo’s National Museum, home to countless artifacts from Japan’s past, is also in the park. Aside from an art gallery, there is an exhibit on early Japanese history, which includes ageless artifacts uncovered by archeologists. The main attraction is in the Honkan building on the museums grounds.

Shinobazu Lake, next to Ueno Park, is home to some of Tokyo’s most serene scenes. Ducks move about the surface of the water, while koi swim below it. This is definitely the place to take a break from a day of Museum hopping.

Cherry blossom season is a time when Ueno Park takes center stage. During this brief springtime festival, when the cherry trees are in bloom, locals head to the park for picnics, barbecues, and, of course, alcohol. Things are definitely more crowded during cherry blossom time, but the atmosphere is laid-back and festive, and everyone is enjoying themselves.

Movie buffs might enjoy the statue of Saigō Takamori, the rebellious samurai leader made famous in the west by the movie The Last Samurai. However, some might be disappointed to see that the statue bears absolutely no likeness to the actor who portrays him in the film.

It is easy to read about old Tokyo, or to see it remembered in movies, but there is little left of the old in what is now the world’s most populated city. Luckily, there is Ueno, which offers a glimpse of what used to be.