Udon: The Perfume of Isaan

Udon Thani, not to be confused with its spell-alike neighbor Ubon, is the gateway to Laos in Thailand’s Isaan Region. While it is not quite fair to call Udon (it is usually referred to on a first name basis) a preview of Laos, the influence of Lao culture and history on this part of Isaan, as with most of the other provinces of the region, is quite noticeable. This charming town has some sights for those who want to take a break from the tourist trail and stop to smell some roses or, in Udon’s case, orchids.

Udon is mostly a center of trade for the region’s farmers. During the 1960s and 70s, Udon was a bustling city and home of a U.S. military base. Most of that energy is gone now, and Udon is definitely not on many tourists’ agendas.

The Chareonsri Complex is one of Isaan’s biggest shopping venues. This huge mall is contrasted by the night market, which opens at around dusk and features some of the best street food in Isaan. There are plenty of places to eat inside the mall. The mall even boasts its own hotel. It might be interesting to take a trip through the mall to compare mall life in Thailand with Western Mall life. Aside from some subtleties, my guess is there are not to many differences. Shoppers might like some of the boutique-style shops.

One of the more interesting, one might even say mysterious, places in Isaan is Phu Phrabat. 25 miles from Udon, the area is littered with unusually shaped rock formations. Many of these rocks have equally unusual painting on them. The park also has a pagoda and several caves. Local residents think of this as a holy place and come here on religious pilgrimages. These pilgrims are more interested in the temple and grottoes-like pagodas, not the curiosity of the mysterious paintings, which draw tourists.

One place where Udon still retains a hint of its glory days is in its nightlife. The area around The Chareonsri Complex has several bars owned and run by expats.

Tourists can’t leave Udon without taking a trip to the Sunshine Nursery. This famous place is known for producing perfumes made solely from the orchids grown in its nurseries. Purchasing a bottle, as well as taking an informal tour of the operation makes for quite an enjoyable afternoon.

Udon is a curious mix of modern and traditional. It seems like a typical city in Isaan, but a closer inspection will reveal a lot of charms hidden below the surface.